Eretz Elana

Photos & Musings by Elana

Spotlight on: Sea of Cortez Pearls

Sea of Cortez Pearls are saltwater cultured pearls from the rainbow-lipped Pteria sterna oyster, native to Mexico's Sea of Cortez. This oyster is also known as the Western Winged Pearl Oyster and Concha Nácar. Mexican Pearls display two features: an unusually compact structure of its aragonite crystals –seen at 500 nanometers- and the display of “spiraled” sub-patterns like a fingerprint, which are unique to these pearls.

Spanish captain Fortun Jimenez marveled at the pearls he saw on the locals when he visited what he termed the “Sea of Pearls” , later christened as the "Mare Bermejo de Cortés" (loosely translated as the "Red Sea of Cortez" and now officially known as the Gulf of California), in 1533. Natural pearls were harvested for the next 300 years, becoming an important export. Unfortunately, the construction of the Hoover Dam depleted nutrients in the Gulf of California, diminishing natural pearl production in the area. To protect the oysters, the government banned harvesting of natural oyster beds in 1939. The Monterrey Technical Institute in Guaymas began studying pearl culturing in 1993, producing the first experimental round pearls in 1996. Only 4,000 pearls are cultured in these waters each year, making them the rarest of cultured pearls. Only 30 percent of the production is round.

The average size of the Sea of Cortez pearl is 8.9 mm, ranging in size from 8.3 to 9.8 mm, but they can get as large as 14.3 mm. Sizes above 10 mm in diameter account for only 5% of a pearl harvest. The pearls are completely untreated; no polishing, bleaching, irradiation, coating or artificial dyeing is performed on them. The Sea of Cortez Pearl is the only pearl in the gem industry that completely qualifies under the Fair Trade Gems protocols.

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Photos courtesy of Perlas del Mar Cortez

August 02, 2010 in Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

The Israel Diamond Industry's Gemstone of the Month: The Pearl

The Israel Diamond Industry has chosen pearls as their June Gemstone of the month.  Check out their article which also includes some help from Elana with their "15 things you didn't know about pearls."

 

 

June 14, 2010 in Current Affairs, Fashion, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Pearl Farmers recognize the benefits of satoumi.

(From the Japan Times)

 

Ago Bay, Japan For decades, pearl farming took a toll on the local environment in Japan. Overproduction and pollution had destroyed many of the local marine inhabitants.

 

"There used to be all kinds of things in the bay-- swimming crabs, clams, sea bass, mozuku seaweed, and sea cucumbers," recalls 75 year old Akira Harajo. "But for 30 years now there have been almost no eels, and for 10 or 15 years there have been no Japanese littleneck clams.  And it was us pearl farmers who polluted the bay."

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Farmers have realized the detrimental effects caused by raw sewage piped directly into the waters.  They can see the consequences in the depletion of marine life and in the direct impact it has to the pearl quality.

 

In theory pearl production is beneficial to the marine environment, except in the case of the farms in Ago Bay where the overproduction of oysters led to farmers growing too many oysters. Droppings and debris covered the sea floor and benthic organisms devoured this waste. The organisms used a huge amount of oxygen and caused hypoxia that killed many fish and other sea creatures.

 

In 2008, Japan embraced the national policy of satoumi, a term that refers to the coastal landscapes where humans play a beneficial role in the environment. Satoumi stems from 'sato' which means village and 'umi' which means sea.

"Coastal seas must have high biodiversity and productivity. The most important thing is to consider the sea a habitat." said Tetsuo Yanagi, who coined the term 'satoumi' in 1997.

 

To read more... http://search.japantimes.co.jp/rss/fe20100530a1.html

June 01, 2010 in Current Affairs, General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education, Nature | Permalink | Comments (0)

Indonesia dominates pearl market - yet wants to improve

VIVA News reports: Indonesia's Ministry of Maritime Affairs and Fisheries, Fadel Muhammad, has announced that Indonesia is now the No. 1 pearl producer worldwide, reaching 53 percent of the market.

Therefore, to improve the pearl's quality, the government will invite pearl experts to the country in an attempt to farm better even pearls.

Already, "the biggest pearl species found in the Philippines and Australia is from Lombok," Muhammad told VIVA News.

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Lombok is famous in the pearl community for its gorgeous golden pearls. We have a few examples of South Sea golden pearls in stock:

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May 06, 2010 in Current Affairs, General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

The Art of Nucleation

A grafter cuts mantle tissue from a donor Tahitian oyster (P.margaritifera). The tissue graft will be implanted with a bead nucleus into the new oyster.  Donor oysters are often meticulously picked out based on their past history of producing especially vivid colored pearls.  Farmers believe the donor tissue may have a lot to do with determining the color the mollusk will produce.

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April 14, 2010 in General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Pearls of a different nature

These unusual beauties are Lion's Paw scallop pearls, which are natural calcareous concretions from mollusks native to the coastal waters of Central and North America.

To learn more, check out What is a Scallop Pearl and Natural pearls of various types.

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April 10, 2010 in General, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (2)

Reader Question: How are Pearls Measured?

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April 09, 2010 in General, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

We're swimming in pearls....

Lots of new strands! We've only posted about 1/4 of the beautiful strands we recently finished drilling so keep your eye out for new strands being posted.

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March 26, 2010 in Fashion, General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Trend Watch: A Touch of Gray

Move over Black, Gray is the hottest new classic! It's been making its way onto the runways as the go-to neutral. We've put together several clothing items from Modcloth.com that flirtatiously play with shades in the gray palette.

 

Pair them with our 4ctw Diamond Hoops, a Silver-Gray Metallic Tahitian pearl necklace and earrings, or Diamond Bracelets.

 

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March 10, 2010 in Fashion, General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Pearls in Spring/Summer Catalogs

Pearls adorn the models in many of the Spring/Summer 2010 catalogs this year. Below are examples from Saks Fifth Avenue and Brooks Brothers. These also offer excellent ideas on ways to wear your pearls.

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March 08, 2010 in Fashion, Jewelry, Jewelry Education, Magazines, Runway/Print | Permalink | Comments (0)

Tahitian Multi Color Strands

We've had some gorgeous Tahitian cultured pearl multi-color strands lately.  I drilled and put together all of these myself, which was very fun to do! I described one as the love child of Richard's Simmon's Sweatin to the Oldies wardrobe and a box of 68 count crayons.

I thought I would post some pictures as they are a great example of the array of colors that come out of p. Margaritifera oysters.

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March 06, 2010 in Fashion, Jewelry, Jewelry Education, Photography | Permalink | Comments (0)

Natural pearls of various types

Natural calcerous concretions from various mollusks. These are from my personal collection.

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February 23, 2010 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (2)

Celebrity Pearl Sightings-- February 17th, 2010

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Top Row: Mariana Klaveno, Alicia Keys, Nadine Warmuth, Soledad O'Brien

Middle Row: Regina Ziegler, Amanda McMahon, PrincessBenedikte, Runway Model

Bottom Row: Princess Mary of Denmark, Kirsten Niehuus, Monica Mo, Caroline Herrera

February 16, 2010 in Celebrities, Fashion, General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education, Royals, Runway/Print | Permalink | Comments (0)

What is a Scallop Pearl?

There are a few types of scallop pearls, most notably the Atlantic Sea Scallop (Placpecten magellanicus) and the Lion's Paw Scallop (Nodipecten subnodosus.). Both of these types of Scallop pearls are non-nacreous pearls defined as "calcareous concretions."

The Atlantic Sea Scallop is native to the waters of Canada and produces very small pearls, white to tan in color and often referred to as Digby Scallops. Canadian Jeweler, Craig Fancy specializes in jewelry designs with these scallop pearls. Below is an example of a common Digby Scallop pearl in a pendant created by Craig Fancy.

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Lion's Paw scallop pearls are natural calcareous concretions from the bivalve mollusk Nodipecten subnodosus. They are native to the coastal waters of Central and North America--most frequently found off the coast of Baja, California.   They are symmetrical, often found in round, drop, oval, and button shapes. Colors range from white to brown to orange with pearls frequently exhibiting a handsome deep brownish-purplish plum hue and like the Conch pearl, they are characterized as “porcelaneous” rather than “nacreous.”

The pearls often display a mosaic pattern that has a sheen or metallic three-dimensional effect when viewed in light.

Below: A Scallop Shell from a Lion's Paw Scallop

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A pair of Scallop pearls from my personal collections:IMG_3386

 

 


  

 

February 16, 2010 in General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Celebrity Pearl Sightings-- February 10, 2010

Top Row: Susie Porter, Gayle King, AnnaLyne McCord, Susan Clatworthy

2nd Row: Soledad O'Brien ,Betsey Ruprecht, Nancy Dell'Olio, Barbara Davis

Bottom Row: Kristin Gillibrand, Print Model, Georgina Earle, Alex Young

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February 10, 2010 in Celebrities, Fashion, General, Jewelry Education, Magazines, Photography, Runway/Print | Permalink | Comments (0)

Natural Fancy Color Tahitian Pearls

We've received so many gorgeous pearls in the last few weeks that I thought I would share some of the amazing fancy colored Tahitians.IMG_3165small IMG_2630small IMG_2680small Tahitians-Loose



February 06, 2010 in General, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Celebrity Pearl Sightings -- February 5, 2010

Top Row: Maureen McCormack (Brady Brunch), Mariana Klaveno, Melissa Tkautz, Helen Mirren,

Middle Row: Joan Collins, Lee Furlong, Jennifer Keyte, Sarah Walker

Bottom Row: Jodie Harsh, Jo Beth Williams, Esther Ratzen, Tricia Heffer

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February 05, 2010 in Celebrities, Fashion, General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Celebrity Pearl Sightings-- February 1, 2010

It is always fascinating to see the diverse group of celebs wearing pearl jewelry, and this group spans many generations of beautiful women.

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Top Row: 90210's Anna Lynne McCord, Brooke Shields, Sharon Lawrence

Middle Row: Angelina Jolie, Susan Fawcett Fosin, Catherine Zeta Jones, Sophia Loren

Bottom Row: Sherry Lansing, Vera Farmiga, Anne Douglas, Vail Bloom

 

January 31, 2010 in Celebrities, Fashion, General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education, Runway/Print | Permalink | Comments (0)

Spotlight on Non-Nacre pearls: Horse Conch, Scallop Pearl, Abalone, Nautilus

 

Non-Nacreous Pearls
Many mollusks produce calcareous concretions that look like pearls but are scientifically not considered "pearls" by gemologists because they do not contain nacre. These 'pearls' have a very similar structure and also consist of calcium carbonate but in a fibrous structure instead of a crystallized form. The mollusks also do not produce the sticky conchiolin paste that fuses the layers of crystallized calcium carbonate.

These calcareous concretions can vary from fragile pastel green balls that crumble with a mild touch to having the same structure & composition as a kidney stone produced by a human, with no commercial value. They can also be very rare durable purple or salmon pink gems that sell for $3000 per carat.

Even cephalopod- mollusks such as squid & octopus, can produce "pearls" but gastropods, such as the Queen conch snail create some of the most prized calcareous concretions. These non-nacreous "pearls" are completely natural and include the Melo Melo from the Indian 'volute' marine snail, the Lion's Paw Scallop pearl, The Queen Conch pearl from the Strombus gingus univalve snail and the North American Quahog "pearls" from the bivalve clam Venus Mercenaria.. Many of these pearls cannot be cultured.

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January 18, 2010 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (1)

England's first captively bred Freshwater mussels reach a big milestone

In 2005, England's Environment Agency had successfully bred Freshwater pearl mussels in captivity for the first time and now those mussels have reached a milestone. From a batch of 70,000 original mussels reared in 2005 at the Agency’s hatchery in Mawddach, 100 have survived to reach the milestone of 3 years old. This closely matches the survival rate of the young pearl mussels in the wild. The conservation program has bred freshwater mussels to replenish the devastated stock of freshwater mussels in England's rivers. Many freshwater mussels have been unable to effectively breed in the wild in the last 30 years.

 

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Nicola Barnfather, Biodiversity Officer, said: "All pearl mussel populations in England and Wales are struggling in their natural environment as the conditions in the rivers are no longer suitable for young mussels, which need pristine water quality. This is part of a wider international problem as we've lost over 90% of the European population in the last 100 years.

If we hadn't intervened and removed the mussels for a captive breeding program they would have very soon become extinct in Lancashire."

 

The agency plans to return the juvenile stock to the wild when they reach five years maturity and is currently working on improving water conditions to aid in the mussel's health and survival.

 

Source: www.environment-agency.gov.uk

January 18, 2010 in Current Affairs, General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Spring 2010 Runway Trends: Graphic Black & White

One of the hottest trends for Spring/Summer 2010 is Graphic black and white. This look was seen all over the runway and especially in Spring 2010 Bridal Collections. Sleek graphic prints are effortlessly stylish, yet create a bold and dramatic look.  Accessorizing this look is especially straightforward because shoes & handbags of any color naturally compliment it.

Helpful Tips:

-Black side panels on a top or dress will slim your waist.

-You can add height to your frame with vertical lines.

-Prints with a diagonal drift flatter curvier figures.

- This look looks incredibly chic when finished off with sleek pulled back hair and red lipstick.

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Above Image:

Chloe Top, Diane von Furstenberg Skirt, Just Cavalli Skirt, Alexander McQueen, DKNY Scarf, Valentino Clutch, Burberry Coat at Net-a-porter.com, 14k Diamond & Tahitian Pearl Earrings, 14k Rutiliated Quartz & Tahitian Pearl Earrings, 14k Rutilated Quartz & Tahitian Pearl Necklace, 14k Pink Gold Diamond Ring, 14k South Sea Bracelet all at FutureFashionista.com

January 17, 2010 in Fashion, General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education, Magazines, Runway/Print | Permalink | Comments (0)

Celebrity Pearl Sightings- January 15th, 2010

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Above: Shohreh Aghdashloo, Susan Fawcett Fosin, Kadee Strickland, Leila Conners, Esther Ratzen, Blaine Caravaggi, Beyonce Knowles, Nicola Roberts

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Angelina Jolie, Anne Hathaway, Franziska Knuppe, Dasha Usmanova, Shohreh Aghdashloo, Jane Rosenthal,  Linda Brettler

 

January 15, 2010 in Celebrities, Fashion, General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education, Runway/Print | Permalink | Comments (0)

Reader Question: How do I clean my pearl strand?

Question: How do I clean my pearl strand?

First of all, remember to never put the strand on if it gets wet (after washing it should always lay flat to dry).

Inevitably it will get dirty, so my trick for a sparkling clean strand is to fill a bowl with mildly warm water and use a very mild soap. I usually use a baby soap or similar.  Make sure the soap does not contain ammonia, bleach, harsh cleaning chemicals and never, never feed it after midnight. (With mogwai comes much responsibility!)

When you are soaping the pearls- sud them between your hands paying special care to the hole/string area where oil, dirt or small farm animals can build up.  Rinse them thoroughly and lay them flat.

Make sure you do not soak them in soap for any period of time.

January 10, 2010 in General, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

2010 AGTA Spectrum Awards

The American Gem Trade Association's yearly Spectrum Awards recognize the innovative use of natural gemstones and cultured pearls in finished fine jewelry design. The awards were announced in late October and this blog post is delayed because I've been waiting for some comprehensive pictures of the entries to be posted instead of only listing the winners.

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Above: Designer,Loren O. Hovland, 18K yellow gold and platinum necklace featuring an oval Brazilian Paraiba Tourmaline (1.08 cts.), abalone Pearls (17.20 ctw.) accented with Paraiba Tourmalines (4.98 ctw.) and Diamonds (.28 ctw.).

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Above: Victor Velyan, 18K yellow gold "Octopus" necklace featuring yellow, cognac and blue Diamonds (6.36 ctw.), a .20 ct. cat's eye Chrysoberyl on a strand of multi-colored South Sea Pearls.

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Above: Samuel Getz, 18K white gold drop earrings featuring antique square cushion-shaped rhodolite Garnets (24.82 ctw.), cushion-shaped red Spinels 91.25 ctw.), black Tahitian Pearls (13mm) and round-brilliant Diamonds (2.04 ctw.).

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Above: Angela Conty, 18K yellow gold pendant featuring a 33.0 ct. Kunzite accented with a purple freshwater Pearl, 36 uncut Diamonds and Diamond melee (.25 ctw)
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Above: Stacia L. Woods, 18K yellow gold pendant featuring a 14.66 ct. green Tourmaline, a black Tahitian Pearl and Diamonds (0.27 ctw.).

 

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Above:James W. Currens, "Bee Line" earrings featuring two 15.6mm golden Pearls and two 12.2mm white Pearls accented with yellow and white Diamonds (3.96 ctw.), Emerald (.06 ctw.), Ruby (.09 ctw.) and Sapphire (.03 ctw.).

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Above: Graham Edney, Platinum earrings featuring freshwater Pearls and white, pink and yellow Diamonds (1.50 ctw.). (Winner, Best Use of Pearls).

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Above:Debbe Woodburg, 14k Angelfish and Pig Brooches

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Above: Graham Edney, 18K yellow gold necklace featuring 98 freshwater Pearls with a platinum and Diamond (.35 ctw.) pendant.

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Above: Evelyn Clothier, 18K rose gold earrings with Agate & pink Diamonds

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Evelyn Clothier, "Tassel" necklace with platinum, featuring a brown Diamond (5.59 ctw.) accented with white Diamonds (9.35 ctw.), Pearls (14.03 ctw.) and Diamond beads (253.22 ctw.).

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Ashok Sancheti, Natural blue Agate bangle featuring platinum and white Diamonds (18.73 ctw.).

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January 07, 2010 in Fashion, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (3)

Who wouldn't want an 11,339 carat milky white encephalon-shaped pearl?

Bonhams and Butterfields of Los Angeles held an auction on Dec 6, 2009 for what is believed to be the world's second-largest pearl, a totally dead sexy five-pound calcareous concretion found off the coastal waters of the Philippines. The snowy-white pearl has been termed the "Palawan Princess" and is the product of the giant clam shell Tridacna gigas.

While the human brain weighs around 3lbs, this brain-shaped blister pearl weighs around 5lbs and measures six inches. It was offered with the lower shell of the gigantic clam it was formed in.

The approximately 11,339-carat Palawan Princess was given an estimated value between $300-400,000 USD but unfortunately there were no buyers.

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Picture Credits:  from Bonhams & Butterfield. 

 

January 05, 2010 in Fashion, Jewelry Education, Nature | Permalink | Comments (0)

Exotic AAA Silver-Ocean Blue Tahitian Cultured Pearl Strand

This outstanding strand of AAA Tahitian cultured pearls deserves an entire post devoted to it. Almost completely blemish free but for 1-2 small pin prick dots. The outstanding natural fancy coloring is silvery-blue with a hint of sea foam and an exotic, luminous glow that is only seen every once in awhile.  Alas, it sold to a very special lady last week.

 

Below: Pictures of it in various lighting.

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December 31, 2009 in General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

What is the best necklace length for me?

Elana's Advice: "A great tip I learned while working with fashion editors for shoots was that the most stylish length of necklace for a woman is atleast two sizes above her actual neck measurement. Use a measuring tape to find how many inches around your neck is, then add two to four inches to that."

Necklace-length__V46770468_ 16 inches: Choker length, this length highlights the neckline and works well on petite women. This also tends to be a more "formal" look.
18 inches: Sits at the Collarbone. This is the most common length because of its versatility. It tends to work well with many types of necklines.
20 inches: Sits a few inches below the collarbone. This style tends to bring the focus toward the chest.
22 inches: At or above the neckline.
24 inches: Below the neckline.
30 inches and more: The Rope length is very popular because it allows many elegant looks. The strand can be double or triple wrapped around the neck depending on its length, or worn as a sexy, long, draping strand. This length can also be wrapped to wear as a bracelet.

December 27, 2009 in Fashion, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Reader Question: What determines the pearls color in Tahitian pearls during culturing?

Q: What determines the pearl's color in Tahitian pearls while it's forming inside the oyster?

A. While that hasn't been totally pinpointed yet, it is generally thought to have a lot to do with the tissue from the donor oyster during nucleation.
During nucleation, the grafter will implant a round bead along with a small piece of tissue from the mantle (the part of the oyster that secretes nacre) of a donor oyster. Those cells from the donor oyster develop around that nucleus into a pearl sack. Those cells from the donor oyster help effect pearl color.

However, pearl color also has to do with environment, the amount of healthy plankton, water salinity, temperature and limited exposure to Pauly Shore movies.

December 27, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Reader Question: How can I tell if my pearls are fake or imitation?

 Here are some simple ways to help identify if your pearl strand or pearl earrings are real:

 

-Try the Tooth Test: Lightly rub the pearl against your tooth (do NOT bite). The pearl should feel gritty, almost like sandpaper. An imitation pearl will be smooth.

-Weight: Real pearls will feel heavy in your hand. Imitation pearls will feel lightweight.

-Temperature: Real pearls will feel cool when touched, Imitation pearls will be room temperature.

-Drill Holes: Real Pearls will have smooth drill holes, Imitation pearls will often have bumpy, uneven edges at the drill hole and will not be as precise.

-If the term "Semi-Cultured"is used in their description This term is a ploy used to fool buyers. Rejected pearls are taken and coated with Mother of Pearl and treated with chemicals to give a fake "luster." These are most definitely imitation pearls.

-If they are Majorica or Mallorca pearls: These are a common type of brand name imitation pearl. They are made of glass balls that are coated with a special paste.

December 25, 2009 in Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Tahitian Pearl Color Chart

Tahitian cultured pearls are among the most sought after of all gems yet due to their relatively new introduction to the market, they remain an enigma to US retailers.  Their coloring is often thought of solely as dark gray or green because the astonishing array of natural fancy colored Tahitians are only seen in stores that carry extensive stock of Tahitian pearls. I often spend a great deal of time educating retailers on the various colors and overtones that are available.

 

Unfortunately there is no standard system for describing color, but I have put together a color chart to highlight some of the vivid colors available in Tahitian cultured pearls.

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December 18, 2009 in Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Outfit of the Day-- Dec 13th, 2009

Make a colorful statement in this regal & downright breathtaking imperial purple Herve Leger dress. Shine even brighter when you pair it with our Mega-Watt 6.5ctw Diamond Chandeliers & 8.35ctw diamond bracelet.

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Herve Leger Dress, Giambattista Valli Jacket, Jimmy Choo Clutch, Yves Saint Laurent Heels all at Net-a-porter.com

8.35ctw Diamond Bracelet & 6.5ctw Platinum Estate Earrings at FutureFashionista.com

 

 

December 13, 2009 in Fashion, Jewelry, Jewelry Education, Runway/Print | Permalink | Comments (0)

What are Purple Quahog Pearls?

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This gorgeous non-nacreous natural pearl typically ranges in color from white, blackish to lavender and purple and comes from the "quahog" clam (Mercenaria  Mercenaria) that thrives in the Atlantic ocean off the shores of Massachusetts and Rhode Island. The pearl forms with a fibrous structure instead of a nacreous structure.

The Quahog clam is also one of the longest living North American bivalves with a life sometimes greater than 40 years.  The shell has a purple stain as a result of the mineral aragonite. Quahog clams are marketed as littlenecks and cherrystones, and they are eaten raw or used in chowder. Many people discover quahog pearls while they are eating their chowder.

One of the most famous examples of the Quahog is the "Golash Brooch", an 18k Brooch (dated from 1835) that was discovered at an antique store marked as $14 and apparently came from the estate of an old ship captain.  The 14mm pearl is one of the finest Quahog pearls known.

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Copyright 2009, Elana Rubin

December 13, 2009 in General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Random Pearl Fact #40

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December 10, 2009 in General, Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Diamond Code of Ethics

“Mazal u”Bracha”:

I'm often asked what this phrase means as it's been used for hundreds of years in the diamond industry.  "Mazal u'Bracha" is a code of ethics in the diamond industry that originated in the 12th century with the Maimon Family.  According to the legend, the revered physician & philosopher Maimonides asked his brother David, a diamond dealer, to conclude all his business dealings in this way.  When dealers reach an agreement, they shake hands and say “Mazal u’ Bracha” which means in Hebrew “Good luck and G-d Bless.”  Even in multi-million dollar transactions, no formal contract is written… the words and handshake is the verbal contract.

November 23, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Scientists unlock the mystery of creating cultured pearls from the Conch Snail

Scientists Héctor Acosta-Salmón and Megan Davis from Florida Atlantic University have successfully cultured over 200 pearls from the Queen Conch Snail with a special technique they developed using two different types of seeding.  The best part?  They have been able to safely seed the snails and harvest the pearls without harm to the snail and with a 100 percent survival rate.

Past attempts to culture conch pearls have been unsuccessful, most likely because of the spiral shape of the shell and the gonad location deep inside the shell.

From GIA's Gems & Gemology: "Natural conch pearls, especially those with attractive pink coloration and flame structure, have very limited availability in the jewelry market. For more than 25 years, attempts at culturing pearls from the queen conch (Strombus gigas) have been unsuccessful - until now. Scientists from Florida Atlantic University's Harbor Branch Oceanographic Institute (authors Acosta-Salmón and Davis) have developed proprietary techniques to produce beaded and non-beaded cultured pearls from the queen conch. "

Picture Below: Drs. Héctor Acosta-Salmón and Megan Davis, co-inventors, standing beside an aquaculture tank.

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Read More here: http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/11/091104000927.htm

 

 

 

November 04, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

GIA Pearl Grading Updates

While I was in New York at GIA, I chatted with them about the pearl education program that they are now updating since the 2000 version. One of the changes they are updating is the "Surface Quality" terminology from 'blemished' to 'spotted.' 

I personally prefer blemished as it is a more general term that easily encompasses the types of blemishes; wrinkles, pits, cavities, cracks, blisters, etc. And spotted makes me think of the dialogue between two women in a maxi-pad commercial.

The wording below will be changed to lightly spotted,  moderately spotted, heavily spotted.

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November 03, 2009 in Jewelry, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

Environmentally Friendly Pearls

Note: This is a reprint from a June 2009 article I posted on my Education page.

How do those adorable lustrous balls impact the planet?
Pearl Farms are one of the few industries that truly gives back more than it takes from the environment. An astounding number of environmental groups have given the "thumbs up" to saltwater pearl farms.

No mining is involved. There are no corrosives leaked into surrounding areas and no chemical leaching. Gold Mining is one of the dirtiest and most destructive industries. The mining of one small gold wedding ring produces twenty short tons of waste that contains toxic heavy metals, mercury, cyanide and other chemicals that seep into the soil and local water systems.
One only needs to recall the devastation from the Aural Gold Mine leak in early 2000 that killed one hundred thousand tons of fish, 300-400 otters, birds and poisoned the drinking water in Hungarian & Romanian areas along the Danube, Szamos, and Tisza rivers. A dam break released 100,000 cubic meters liquid waste containing toxic concentrations of cyanide along with arsenic, lead, copper and other metals.

  • The Pinctada margaritafera and Pinctada maxima Oysters will never get arrested for their recreational drug usage. The Culturing of South Sea & Tahitian Pearls involves no fertilizers, feeds, herbicides, drugs, chemicals, or antibiotics so that adorable little mollusk most certainly didn't "inhale."
  • Pearl Farmers advocate for the environment. Pearl Farmers understand that high quality pearls can only be harvested from healthy oysters grown in clean, nutrient rich waters. Pollution in the water can weaken oysters and inhibit the secretion of nacre. Pearl farmers are often the leading local advocates in enacting laws and protecting water quality to keep their industry alive. They lobby aggressively for ecological sensitivity and the welfare of local marine life. In addition to offering opportunities for employment, Pearl Farming encourages local island communities greater stewardship over their natural resources and fosters pride in their land.
  • Natural Ocean Cleaning systems. Oyster are very efficient at filtering water by passing it over their gills and using it for food or binding it into larger segments to discharge. Pearl oysters clean the water, remove nitrogen and accelerate the process of de-nitrification. There is also a bio-remediative potential of pearl oysters, with their ability to remove heavy metals from polluted waters.
    Pearl Farms provide protection for the fragile reefs. As Neil Anthony Sims writes in his "Green Pearls" Article, " The biological benefits are tremendous (all that wonderful vertical relief for biomass to build up, and for fish recruitment), the protection afforded coral reefs by a pearl farm's armed guards is unimpeachable, and there is no other industry that provides such stable, lucrative employment opportunities for isolated atolls.
  • "Mi Casa Es Su Casa!" The cages, nets, ropes and equipment used on pearl farms provide a habitat for other vital aquatic species from young lobsters and shellfish to crustaceans and fish during critical times in their life cycles. The Oyster cages provide these aquatic species important protection from predators and a large area for fouling (Barry White music & candlelight dinners not included).
  • Strict standards & regulations set by local governments in Australia & by the French Polynesian government have evolved the pearl farming industry into an environmentally compassionate trade. Each oyster has its own license number. Nucleation is limited to one pearl per oyster and strict age guidelines are observed for harvesting and culturing. Western Australian Pearling Act 1990 An Act to regulate pearling and pearl oyster hatchery activities, to provide for the conservation and management of pearl oyster fisheries, to repeal the Pearling Act 1912 and for connected purposes. This Pearling Act established guidelines for Perling aquaculture, declaration of zones, specified the type of Oyster (Pinctada Maxima and all potential hybrids created within the hatcheries) and the type of punishable offense for removing under or oversized oysters, harvesting more than established quotas.
  • The most important environmental impact that Pearl Culturing has done is to save the depleted mollusk populations from extinction in the early 1900's. The past few decades have brought the Pinctada Margaritafera oyster back from the brink of extinction, replenished oyster stock.


    Special Thanks to The Department of Fisheries- Western Australia, Robert Wan Group, The Cultured Pearl Association of America, Gemological Institute of America for biographical and historical information.
    Article by: Elana Rubin, Copyright June 2009
  • October 19, 2009 in Jewelry Education, Nature | Permalink | Comments (0)

    Reasons why you should buy your pearls from FutureFashionista.com


    1.) We Love You.
    Has anyone ever told you how fetching you look In that shirt? We are a customer-friendly company and you are important to us. We enjoy your emails and we like to help you choose jewelry for yourself. We are happy to chat on the phone with you when you have questions about an item and we may even tell you a joke that will make you groan and roll your eyes.

    2.) It’s not the size that counts.
    By shopping with us, you are supporting a small female owned business.

    3.) 100 % Satisfaction Guaranteed
    We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee and an unconditional return policy.

    4.) Beautifully Packaged.
    Every order is elegantly boxed, gift wrapped and comes with an extra treat because everyone deserves a present now and than.

    5.) The Best Prices.
    Our prices are the best on the net. If you see something you like but it’s a little out of your budget simply email us. It doesn’t hurt to ask.

    6.) Professional Advice.
    While we lack the degree required to advise you on your Uncle Irving’s sleep issues, we do know diamonds, pearls and things that sparkle. Owner Elana Rubin is a Graduate of Pearls from GIA and is more than happy to chat with you about pearls, jewelry trends and the various items we offer. You are welcome to contact us for additional pictures of an item, comparisons and any other information you need. We pride ourselves in offering you personalized support. As far as Uncle Irving, Elana suggests a glass of warm milk or listening to a lecture on single-celled spore germination - apparently that worked will for her in college.

    7.) Premium Quality
    Our pearls are of the best quality luster, color and nacre thickness. We meticulously hand pick our pearls from hundreds of lots, carefully matching and drilling them ourselves. Each pearl strand is professionally knotted and finished at the ends with French bullion to protect against wear.

    8.) We have an Earth-loving hippy trapped inside us
    Aside from our interest in folk music and tendency to hug people all the time, we are a socially responsible, environmentally friendly company.

  • As a supporter of the “No Dirty Gold Campaign”, we recycle gold to reduce the environmental damage caused by gold mining.
  • We use “Green bench” practices; cadmium free solder and fluoride free fluxes, the elimination of solvents and catch cups in our drains to prevent metals from entering the water system.
  • We carry conflict-free diamonds and ethically sourced gemstones.
  •  Our pearls come from clean ocean environments and farms that advocate for the environment and offer fair wages and educational programs for locals.

    9.) Giving back
    Every purchase you make through FutureFashionista.com gives back to the community. We donate part of the proceeds of every item purchased to a charitable organization, homeless shelter or an educational program. Some of the wonderful organizations that have benefitted include: City Meals on Wheels, Action against Hunger, Doctors without borders, The AIDS emergency fund, Two Left Paws Pet Shelter, UNICEF, Autism Awareness and Best Buddies International.

    10.) Glowing Feedback from Past Customers
    Read our customer testimonials and view our 100% positive feedback on EBay.
  • September 22, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    Pearl Fact #30

    PearlFact30

    September 10, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    Reader Question: Are female or male oyster used during nucleation?

    "Are female or male oysters used during nucleation?"
    The answer is both!   Marine Pearl oysters are characteristically protandrous hermaphrodites, meaning that they develop first as males and change their gender after one or more reproductive cycles. Pearl oysters are also rhythmical hermaphrodites which means that they multiple sex reversals during their lifetime. These reversals occur repeatedly at least once per year or more depending on environmental factors (premature death of male oysters) and endogenous factors.

    Freshwater mussels from the Unionidae family are mostly dioecious, meaning they have distinct genders and are not hermaphroditic... although several freshwater mussels are hermaphroditic. Both sexes are used in nucleation.

     

    September 06, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    Article on when to wear pearls

    Thanks to Lisa for the link....  Here is a neat article on when to wear pearls:

    http://www.datingmiracle.com/product-review/when-to-wear-pearls-7184.html

    August 23, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    FF.com Answers Reader Questions

    Q:           Reader Question:  Do you have suggestions for edgy, non-traditional pearl jewelry for a hip twenty-something?

    A:            We have a vast array of items that work for hip twenty-somethings.  Here are a few suggestions:

    - A rope necklace with “slashed” 18K beads and vivid Tahitian cultured pearls.  The unusual shape of the pearls offers an edgier deviation from the traditional round shape.

     00a

    http://futurefashionista.com/18ktapesibla.html

     

    - Black Tahitian stud earrings are a chic tweak on the iconic white pearl stud.  They are frequently seen on Angelina Jolie.

    00b

    http://futurefashionista.com/10dagrbltacu.html

     

    -Pairing vibrant, bright colors with South Sea Pearls exudes a playful, youthful vibe. 

    00c

    http://futurefashionista.com/14kga11sosea.html

    August 12, 2009 in Fashion, Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    Weddings & Pearls: A lustrous marriage

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    Wedding pearls can be worn in a multitude of colors, shapes and styles; as a simple white 6mm Akoya cultured pearl strand, as a diamond and silver-gray Tahitian cultured pearl pendant, as large South Sea cultured pearl drop earrings or perhaps as a multi-strand freshwater cultured pearl necklace.  Whichever design you chose, pearls are an idyllic wedding day accessory.

    I remember looking for my own bridal necklace nearly 10 years ago, hoping to find the perfect necklace to match my ball gown style wedding dress. Unfortunately there were no family heirlooms, so I relied on my small post college budget, knowing simply that I could only picture myself wearing pearls. What better symbol of love than a gem that requires time to grow and is beautiful as it is without having to be faceted or cut?

    Pearls and weddings do have a long involved history that spans multiple cultures and many centuries. Ancient Hindu text talks about the story of Krishna, who "brought forth pearls from the depths of the sea to give to his daughter Pandaia on her wedding day." (The Rigveda, 1000 BCE ) Ancient Greeks believed that if a bride wore pearls she would have a happy marriage with few tears. During the crusades, knights returning from the Middle East bestowed pearls upon their bride for their wedding day. By the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Century, pearls were the height of bridal fashion with Royal Weddings in the House of Burgundy taking place in a veritable "sea of pearls." (The Pearl Book, Antoinette Matlins)

    Pearls were also the choice for engagement rings up until the early Twentieth Century.  Many famous European and American socialites had engagement rings of large pink, white or black pearls. Countess Court Haugwitz-Reventlow, the former Barbara Hutton, wore a large black Tahitian pearl engagement ring. The last empress of Russia wore a pink pearl engagement ring and the Queen Mother has worn a pearl and diamond engagement ring since 1940. Pearls represented a symbol of love, happiness and purity were a perfect gift for a bride. At the beginning of the twentieth century pearls were just as popular as diamonds as a wedding gift or adornment for brides.

    No matter what pearl design a bride chooses, there is no better symbol of purity and natural, beautiful love than pearls.  Perhaps this is why it has been the choice of brides and grooms for hundreds of years.

     

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    18K WHITE GOLD OVAL WHITE SOUTH SEA & DIAMOND EARRINGS

    August 07, 2009 in Fashion, Jewelry Education, Wedding | Permalink | Comments (0)

    Midwest Natural Freshwater Pearls

    One of my friends is an avid collector of natural pearls and was kind enough to bring over his collection of old natural freshwater pearls found in the Midwest.  He's been collecting for almost 50 years and has a vast collection of colors and shapes from the hey days of pearls in the US.  Pearl author Elizabeth Strack just finished up a visit here to see his collection and meet with him and another man writing a book on Wisconsin pearls.

    Thanks N for sharing!

    IMG_7050small 

    IMG_7030small 

    Natural Pink Wisconsin Pearl from the Prairie Du chien area and a Mississippi River Pearl

    IMG_7007small 

    IMG_7042small 

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    IMG_7055small 

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    Below: These are called Chicken Feed.  Farmers would feed the Clam shell meat to their chickens and the chickens would spit out the pearls or digest these accidently, hence the term "chicken feed"

    IMG_7022small 

    And the crowning glory is this GIA cert'd natural smooth nearly round white pearl.

    IMG_7035small

    August 06, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    South Sea & Tahitian Pearl Nucleation

    This first picture shows a grafter on a pearling boat. P maxima can be extremely sensitive so often the high tech grafting is actually done on a boat rather than back on land so that the oysters go through less shock. Each grafter nucleates about 300 oysters a day. The bowls on the left are the shell beads used in nucleation.
    IMG_6630 

    This is a closeup of a second nucleation. They make an incision in the gonad of a Pinctada margaritifera to remove the pearl at harvest and than immediately insert a brand new slightly larger bead nucleus into the already formed pearl sac.
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    IMG_6629 

    After the oyster is nucleated they put it in these individual pouches (pic below). If the oyster rejects the nucleus, the nucleus will end up in the pouch and than they know which oyster was the one to reject it.
    IMG_6633 

    Pictures Courtesy of GIA and SSPC

    August 04, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    Random Peart Fact #178

    PearlFact178

    July 31, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    Pearl Fact #28

    PearlFact28

    July 24, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    History of Pearl Jewelry in Europe & the U.S.

    Renaissance
    The mid-Fifteenth century saw the arrival of the Renaissance and unprecedented availability of pearls arriving in Europe form India, Ceylon, and the Americas. Pearls were worn in abundance, appearing in hat ornaments, collars, chains, necklaces, hari decorations, girdles and rings. Pearls were combined with other gemstones with vivid enamel detailing. Pearls were strung through the hair of royalty and even mail royals were bedecked in pearls.

    Among the most popular jewels of the Renaissance were pearl pendants that resembled miniature sculptures and were built around Baroque pearls. Jewelers created intricate designs of unicorns, dragons, lions, sea monsters, ships, mermaids and tritons. These pendants were worn suspended from chains, necklaces or headbands, or attached by ribbons to the hair, skirt or bodice. Pearls were also commonly used in Christian ecclesiastical vestments, chalices, altars, crosses and reliquaries.



    Age of Elegance 1650-1800
    A new, less ostentatious look of pearls reflected the changes of the time. Royalty wore pear shaped and round pearls in strands around the necklace. In colonial America, fashionable women favored single or multiple strands of pearls.

    The most popular pearl jewels throughout Europe in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries were large pear-shaped earrings up to 20mm. These were known as “unions d’excellence.” Another popular style using pear shaped pearls was the earring style called girandole, introduced in the seventeenth century. It consisted of a bow with three pear shaped pearl drops suspended from it.


    Photos by Alibas Agency

    The Gilded Age 1800’s – 1900’s
    Swags, garlands, bows and tassels incorporated in pearl jewelry were favored motifs in the Gilded Age. Dog collar necklaces were popularized by Consuelo Vanderbilt and Queen Alexandra of England.

    In the late 1800’s to early 1900’s many American society women and movie stars favored long pearl ropes worn alone or layered with similar ropes in a casual manner. The early 1900’s brought the appearance of Art Nouveau style jewelry. Pearls were used in brooches, earrings, necklaces and hair pieces.

    During the jazz age of the 1920’s, long ropes of pearls were very popular on flappers and entertainers such as Josephine Baker. Dancer Irene Castle introduced the “headache band,” a velvet ribbon embroidered with pearls and worn around the forehead.

    July 23, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    Random Pearl Fact #21

    PearlFact21

    July 23, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

    Interview & Review of Fred Ward's Pearl Book

    Pearls Fred Ward's book titled simply and fittingly, "Pearls", is a fantastically written guide about the magical gemstone and the mollusks that create it. The book's concise and eloquently written accounts of historical information and the author's own personal experience make the book perfect for beginner or advanced pearl connoisseur.

    As he did so well in his National Geographic articles, Ward intricately and descriptively teaches his readers with fascinating folk lore, scientific information and significant details and stories from over 25 years in the industry. He arms his readers with details on post-harvest processing of pearls, culturing techniques and how to purchase and care for pearls. Best of all, he wraps the stories and details together seamlessly with his vivid photographs of everything from the inviting waters surrounding the pearl farms to underwater pictures of divers turning baskets of dinner plate sized Pinctada Maxima oysters.

    I first read this book as a college student and found it was one of the few pearl books to focus on pearls as something other than a simple jewelry item.  I remember curling up in a chair in my university's library until close, as I carefully read each enthralling chapter and pored over his invaluable historical information.  This is certainly a "must have" for any pearl enthusiast.

    Fred's book is available at fredwardgems.com or by calling:  (310) 456-9949

    Fred was kind enough to do an interview with us and discuss his thoughts on pearls and the pearl industry.

    Elana:  Of the pearl farms you have visited, what was your most exciting experience? 

      FW:  After doing this kind of journalism for years, it's the less exciting but more beautiful pearls that capture my attention. Pearls are nowhere near as dangerous as say DIAMONDS can be, but in some parts of the world it is certainly as dangerous to deal in pearls as it is to deal in diamonds. If I know I am going to be in an environment that is unstable, I take more caution than usual. Fortunately, pearls are not tainted by so many problems as many of the other desirable gems. 


    Elana:  Do you have a specific Marine Pearl that is your favorite?

    FW:   Because I have worked around the world so many times, I don't think I have focused on favorites. What I do when out on assignments is to focus on the gem of the moment. I will tell you that I was very pleased to work on some material that I had never worked with before. These are the MELO pearls (or MELO-MELO pearls) that are rare and very pricey. The best seem to come from around Viet-Nam and are very collectible.


    Elana:  I was interested to learn about the short culturing methods in Akoya pearls. Is this still just as prevalent?  Do you think that the governments will ever put tighter regulations on the farmers?

    FW:   Inexpensive pearls are often not kept in the water long enough to produce an attractive product. It's the same story around much of the world. If the pearls are not very attractive they are often sold the way they are. Pearl farmers are always checking and looking to see if the pearls are attractive enough to sell now. The longer they stay in the water, the more expensive it is for the pearl farmer. So, many decisions have to be made. I would say it's a difficult way to make a living. 

    Elana:  What are your feelings on the post harvest/bleaching treatments in Freshwater pearls coming out of China/Japan?  I've been seeing many pearls with very short shelf lives that become victims of what the Chinese term as "oxidizing"  Do you see this a lot too?  Is there any way for consumers to avoid strands like this in Freshwater?

    FW     This is a relatively recent problem. There has always been nagging decisions about when to do the various tasks with pearling, but it does seem that the choices are more difficult. The pearls (or spat) have to have clean water, the right temperatures, the right time to start and the right time to harvest. The families have many difficult decisions. I do think that there is a lot more diddling with the spat. The farmers won't tell you what they're doing (right or wrong) but I think there is more and more diddling and I don't think this is a good thing.

    Elana:  Have you been able to see the Vietnamese Akoya pearls or pearl farms? What are your feelings on them?

    FW:   Actually, I have not been on a Vietnamese Akoya pearl farm for perhaps 6 or 7 years. I'm sure they must be trying new approaches and techniques. But so much of the success of such operations is just luck. At the moment I am much more interested in great pearls south of Manila. 

    Elana: What were some of your most exciting experiences in the pearl industry throughout the years?

    FW:   There are so many stories that I did with pearls that this would be a tough call. Perhaps one of the more interesting stories is about the pearl dealer in Dhahran who is a tenth generation pearl dealer and has bought and sold Marie-Antoinette's jewelry as well as many fabulous pearls. When I first went into his office I saw a beautiful huge round table that was way-wider than a grown man. I asked if we could fill it half-way with fabulous pearls. My host instantly said, "Why not fill the whole table?" And so we did.... the biggest and priciest collection of great natural pearls in the world.  

    Elana:  Can you think of something that you would like younger women to know about the pearl industry?

    FW:   Pearls can make a memorable statement for anyone. When I see young couples looking for a ring or pin I think they are probably stretching their budget. And that is not the way to begin a pearl collection. If you can wait for the right moment to buy, you may be surprised at bargains, perhaps just a bit after Xmas instead of before. Look for those bargains and make a casual friend with your local gem dealer. I think the best way to shop is to browse. Ask questions. Don't be afraid. The store owners and the workers are all wanting a sale. Ask for a deal. See if you can get the item(s) you want if you bargain. It is a perfectly proper to ask for a better price. The store owner wants to make a sale as least as much you want the gem. But you have the control. Come back another day if you like. Don't be afraid. They're not going to throw you out. They want you to be happy just as you want to be. 

    July 14, 2009 in Jewelry Education | Permalink | Comments (0)

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